Content Update #2 – Route Pyramids & Small(er) Edges

Continuing with our plans of releasing 2 new workouts every week, this week we have the Route climbing variation of the Bouldering Pyramid workout and a variation of our Small Edges fingerboard workout featuring smaller-er edges.

Route Pyramid

First up we have the route climber’s variation of the classic Pyramid workout we have in the Strength & Power category. The goal of this workout is to increase specific power endurance on routes. You can use circuits for this session if you are not able to complete the workout on routes but this is less ideal. Circuits are only the best if the routes available are too easy or your aim is to train for boulder link ups.

Choose a list of routes which range in difficulty from easy to maximum effort. Ideally you will have 8 different climbs available but if this is not possible, you can repeat climbs more than once. It does not matter if the climbing is on-sight or has been practiced before. The main consideration is perception of effort.

Start by climbing the easiest of your chosen climbs. This can be used as part of your warm up. For each subsequent set, the difficulty of climb should increase by 1-3 grades until you reach a point of maximum effort. Ideally, your hardest climb attempted will result in either completing it at max effort or falling off close to the end. Once the hardest climb has been attempted, reduce the difficulty of each subsequent climb by 1-3 grades..

A climber who can (at best) red-point 7b/5:12b and on-sight 6c+/5:11b may use the following list of climbs. As this is completed at their local gym, they may have already attempted routes above 7a/5:11d in previous sessions.

1- 5+ / 5:8
2-6a+ / 5:10b
3-6c / 5:11a
4-7a+ / 5:12a
5-7b / 5:12b
6-7a / 5:11d
7-6b+ / 5:10d
8-6b / 5:10c

Small Edges 6-8mm

Next we have separated our existing Small Edges workout into two different variations, one for 10-13mm edges and the new 6-8mm edges workout.

This training session is extremely hard and skin insensitive. We generally advise that you train on holds of this size for shorter periods (approximately 4 weeks) before a performance peak. This workout is for climbers with a lot of training experience.

The goal of this workout is to improve forearm and finger strength and become accustomed to a smaller hold size. This training is useful to complete once you have followed a period of 4-8 weeks of max hangs and have progressed from training on slightly bigger edges (10-13mm).

Complete the following 6 hangs using a fingerboard or edge that is skin friendly and around 6mm to 8mm deep. Progressively build up the load during a warm up protocol until you are ready to train at maximal intensity. It is useful to warm up on bigger edges and reduce the edge size in the warm up until you reach the smallest depth used within this workout.

Sets 1-6: Max intensity for 7 seconds on each hang. You can increase intensity by adding weight to your body or removing weight from an assistance (i.e. pulley system).

As this workout is working at maximal capacity you may be close to failure during the last few sets. Please only use a weight which is extremely challenging but allows you to complete the full 7 second hang time. If you fail to complete 7 seconds the intensity it too high.

Give ’em a shot and let us know what you think!